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These forms are appropriate for pools using either bromine, chlorine, ionizers, or 'chlorine - free' methods. If you are using bromine, it is not necessary to inform the dealer: bromine results should be reported as chlorine. Adequate bromine levels will be maintained if you simply 'pretend' that the bromine is chlorine and test accordingly.

[When a chlorine test is performed on a bromine pool, bromine values are EXACTLY 2.25 times the chlorine results that appear. If your apparent chlorine levels are OK, your pool has adequate bromine residuals.]

It is VERY important that you test BOTH pool and tap water, at least once each year. Your dealer may not be able to test all values: get as many tests as you can.

If you are having problems with stains, the metals tests are VERY important. Manganese levels from well water may have to be determined by an analytical lab; in 'city' water, you should be able to get them by calling your water company. Copper and iron MUST be tested: even when there is none at the treatment plant, YOUR water may have them as a result of aging water mains.

The nitrate/phosphate/ammonia levels should be tested if you are having problems with uncontrolled algae growth or cannot maintain chlorine.

If you have questions, contact me.

Use either the chlorine form, or the PHMB form (for Baquacil(tm) or Softswim(tm))


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